Kitchen & RitualsEriceira · February 20263 min

Egg yolk, liver, anchovies: three foods I no longer avoid

This is a draft. The full article will follow.

I grew up in the nineties. That means I skipped the egg yolk for three decades, never touched liver, and anchovies were the bits left behind on a Pizza Quattro Stagioni. They were my grandmother's foods, and in the magazines of my youth they were unhealthy, fatty, old. Today they are on my table. Not every day, but regularly. Egg yolk with good salt and pepper on bread. Chicken liver briefly seared with onions and a splash of port, every second Sunday. Anchovies from the jar, three on a tomato, ten seconds of work. What these three share: choline, iron, vitamins A and D, selenium, omega-3. Exactly the nutrients adult women in Europe today routinely come up short on. What they also share: they are not expensive. They are cheap, in fact. And they have not taken anything away from me. They have given back something I did not know I had lost.